Everyone's Talking About: Ectoin

Dr Philippa Cranwell, Technical Content Creator

Ectoin (also spelled ectoine) is the latest beauty trend to hit the cosmetics market and is making waves with its broad array of biological benefits. Ectoin was first isolated in 1985 by Galinski, Pfeiffer and Trüper from the extremely halophilic (salt-loving) bacterium Ectothiorhodospira halochloris. These bacteria must resist conditions such as intensive sun irradiation, high temperatures and extreme dryness, with bacteria secreting ectoin as part of their defense mechanism. 

The chemical name for ectoin is 1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid, with the structure resembling that of a heterocyclic amino acid. This is key for its mode of action: the quasi-amino acid structure allows it to stabilize proteins and other cellular structures, which helps protect the organism from stresses such as UV radiation and dryness. In addition, ectoin does not impact upon cell metabolism, so the safety profile is good. Finally, the amphoteric nature and excellent water solubility means that it can be added to a range of cosmetic formulations with relative ease. 

Ectoin can be produced commercially and in high purity using biotechnology. One of the first patented uses was from Merck, who pioneered it’s inclusion as a moisturizer within cosmetic products, as well as an antioxidant and free-radical scavenger. In particular, their product RonaCare™ is marketed to protect skin from environmental stress and pollution, including UVA-induced photoaging, as well as acting as a super-moisturizer and contributing to graceful aging and wellbeing. 

Although the benefits of ectoin have been known for a long time, in recent years there has been a resurgence in interest that is likely due to two things. Firstly, as noted above, the amino acid-like structure means that it can bind to proteins, cell membranes and nucleic acid and stabilize them, an excellent USP for any skincare product. Secondly, ectoin can easily form hydrogen bonds with water and therefore serves to aid hydration in cells, another key selling-point for numerous products. With this in mind, it looks like the future of ectoin is bright, and there are likely to be many more beauty products containing ectoin coming to the market soon, including moisturizing creams, serums, shampoos and conditioners, and even make-up. 

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