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Dr Philippa Cranwell Technical Content Creator
Peptides are in the news at the moment….a lot. While most of the coverage has been in relation to development of the blockbuster peptide-based drugs Ozempic and Wegovy, peptides are also having impact through their use as actives within cosmetic science and personal care. The question is, why?
Peptides are small, low molecular-weight compounds usually containing between 2 and 50 amino acids which are joined by peptide (also called amide) bonds. Proteins are their larger cousins that can contain hundreds of amino acids, and both play significant roles within the body with functions including cell signaling, providing structure and transportation. Within the cosmetics industry, many products that contain peptides have claims that include ‘plumping’, ‘hydration’, ‘repair’ and ‘strengthening’. And actually, there could be something behind this.
Peptides are small, which means that they can be absorbed through the skin. Peptides are, therefore, often used to target biological processes. Take the stimulation of collagen production in the skin, for example.
Collagen is known to provide support in the extracellular space of connective tissues, and as we age, the amount of collagen produced in the body reduces and existing collagen breaks down at a faster rate, which leads to sagging and wrinkles; the visual manifestations of aging skin. Inclusion of small peptides into a formulations, such as palmitoyl tripeptide-38 (Matrixyl Synthe'6), can stimulate production of protein components within the extracellular matrix, such as collagen, leading to improved skin characteristics seen by users, Figure 1. Accordingly, when peptides are included in a product, claims are often relating to restoring youthful skin or ‘defying the signs of aging’.
Figure 1: Structure of palmitoyl tripeptide-38 (Matrixyl Synthe'6). CAS: 1101448-24-1
It is interesting to speculate whether the inclusion of peptides in lip care products could also give interesting benefits. The skin on the lips is thinner and more prone to damage by external environmental factors, including UV and temperature. In addition, as lip skin is thinner and contains fewer sebaceous glands than skin elsewhere on our bodies, lips can suffer from chapping due to an increased rate of water loss, especially in winter. Incorporation of peptides into lip care products, such as masks, balms, creams or lipsticks, could mean that collagen formation is stimulated, leading to a smoother and more evenly textured surface.
Contact us if you interested in working with TRI on your skin care or lip care research.
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