Although lipids are a minor component of the hair (~5%), they can have a large influence on hair properties.  Hair lipids are found in the spaces between cortical and cuticle cells, in a structure called the Cell Membrane Complex (CMC).  The CMC is the ‘glue’ that holds hair cells together.  It is also a barrier to penetration of materials into the hair, and the main route of diffusion of low molecular weight materials into and out of the hair. Damage or extraction of hair lipids can affect hair strength, and hair porosity to water and other molecules.

Analysis of lipids on present inside the hair can give insight into claims relating to shampoo surfactant mildness, prevention of lipid damage by chemical treatments, heat styling treatments and UV light, and hair lipid replenishment.

High-performance thin layer chromatography (HPTLC) is a specialized technique that allows hair lipid composition to be determined rapidly, with high resolution. Difference in lipid composition between a control and treated hair tresses can be readily identified, allowing rapid results and the ability to compare between different products or formulations.

TRI also has HPLC and GC-MS capabilities.  When necessary, these allow for even deeper analysis lipid structures and composition.