The primary purpose of shampoos, and other hair cleansing products, is to remove sebum and other hair soils from the hair surface and the scalp. Water-based shampoos do this using the detergent action of the surfactants in the formulations. Dry shampoos do this by the collection of sebum by small particles deposited by the product in the hair, which are then brushed out by the user.

Choice of shampoo and dry shampoo formulations can affect the efficiency of sebum removal and overall hair cleansing. For example, it is widely known that changing the surfactants in a shampoo product can affect the amount and types of sebum lipids removed. It is also well understood that the type of absorbent particle used in a dry shampoo can affect product performance.

Analysis of sebum lipids from the hair and scalp is useful in supporting hair cleansing claims, and also in understanding the effects of formulation changes on lipid removal.

High performance thin layer chromatography (HPTLC) is a specialized technique that allows sebum lipid composition to be determined rapidly, with high resolution. Difference in lipid composition between a control and treated hair can be readily identified, allowing rapid results and the ability to compare between different products or formulations.

TRI also has HPLC and GC-MS capabilities. When necessary, these allow for even deeper analysis lipid structures and composition.