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Hair Claims Testing

LABORATORY TESTING

Our hair testing team offers a wide range of measurement techniques to assess the effects of raw materials, finished products and appliances on hair. Hair testing generally falls into three categories: hair tress tests, hair fiber tests and active deposition and absorption techniques.

Hair Tress Tests

Hair tress tests are methods used to show how products or devices deliver end-benefits to the whole hair array that are directly consumer relevant (e.g. softness, smoothness, shine etc).  These types of techniques also often help support marketing propositions (e.g. “twice as smooth”, “10x less breakage”).

Hair Breakage from Repeated Grooming
Automated Repeated Grooming Device

If you are interested in how well your hair conditioning product, or styling device, prevents hair breaking during repeated brushing or combing, then you may consider performing a repeated grooming test.

Ease-of-Combing
Automated Combing Apparatus

The ability to pass a brush or comb through hair with minimal snagging, tangling or friction is key to consumer perception of hair condition.  If you want to know how well your products condition the hair and reduce dry or wet grooming forces, then you may want to consider performing ease-of-combing experiments.

Hair Shine
Image Analysis

If you want to show how well your product improves hair shine or luster, then you might consider performing a hair shine test.

Frizz Control
Image Analysis

Image analysis is used to assess the shape of heat straightened hair in the presence of elevated humidity conditions. High quality photographs show the progressive reversion of the hair shape as a result of the external stimulus.

Hair Color Fade
Colorimeter

Hair that has been colored by dye products can fade as a result of various external influences (e.g. washing, heat styling, sun exposure).  If you are interested in measuring how your products, or devices, affect these color changes, then you might consider performing color fade measurements.

Control of Hair Static
Hair Static Apparatus

The build-up of static electricity, which can lead to frizzy or flyaway hair, can be an issue in air-conditioned buildings during the low-humidity winter months and is often problematic during heat styling.  If you want to show how your product or hair styling device reduces flyaway or hair frizz, it might be interesting to measure hair static levels.

Dry Hair Smoothness
Surface Friction with the Texture Analyser

Dry hair smoothness is a key preference driver for many hair products, including shampoos and conditioners. Furthermore, restoration of dry hair smoothness is an important signal to consumers of hair damage repair. As a result, hair friction experiments are widely used in the category for performance testing of conditioning systems, and for supporting damage repair claims.

Ease of Rinse of Conditioning Products
Three-Point-Bend Test on Wet Hair

Fast ease of rinse is an important preference driver for all conditioning products, and for reducing water usage in the shower. This three-point-bend test can be used as a dynamic measure of wet lubrication effects and reflect what customers experience when using a product.

Hair Removal with Chemical Depilatory Products
Skin-Like Model with Embedded Hairs

Depilatory products have been used for hair removal for several hundred years.  TRI Princeton offers a method for testing the efficacy of these products for hair removal through a fully customizable skin-like model with embedded hair fibers.

Hair Volume and Body
Image Analysis

If you want to show how your products deliver volume and body to hair, then you might consider performing a tress volume test.

Heat Protection
Hot Iron with Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and automated repeated grooming

There are a range of approaches to protecting the hair from heat styling damage. The benefits of heat protection technologies can be measured using Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and automated repeated grooming.

Pollution Protection - Gaseous
Gaseous Pollution Test Apparatus

Our anti-pollution test for gaseous pollution uses a custom-built chamber that is able to pass exaggerated levels of ozone pollution over the surface of the hair.

Pollution Protection - Particulate
Particulate Pollution Test Apparatus

This test uses a custom-built pollution chamber that is able to deposit pollutant particles evenly, accurately and reproducibly over the surface of a number of tresses.

Speed of Drying
Custom-Built Test Apparatus

If you want to show how your product reduces hair drying times, or how fast your blow-drying device dries the hair versus others, then you might want to consider the speed of drying test.

Split Ends Closure
Automated Repeated Grooming Device

For many consumers, split ends are an important indicator of hair damage. They are formed as a result of chemical processing, heat styling and combing, and arise from the loss of the hair cuticle, or the external ‘jacket’ that keeps hair fibers intact.

Straightness and Alignment
Image Analysis

The degree of hair alignment in a tress can be measured using image analysis (Rumba™, Bossa Nova Vision). This test can be used for the quantification of hair straightening and frizz control benefits.

Style Hold, Humidity Resistance, Stiffness and Toughness
Three-Point Bending Test

The degree of hold provided by styling polymers can be measured using the three-point bending test. In addition to stiffness (or hold), this test can also measure humidity resistance and toughness.

Style Retention
Curl Drop Test

Image analysis is used to assess the longevity of hair curls in the presence of elevated humidity conditions. High quality photographs show the curl integrity as a function of time.

Sun (UV) Protection
Solar Simulator

Our UV protection studies use an instrument to artificially expose hair to high levels of simulated sunlight.

Textured Hair Breakage
Hair Combing

This test involves the combing of bundles of textured hair, whilst they are still wet. Hair bundles are combed manually, and the broken fibers collected underneath.

Textured Hair Ease of Comb
Automated Combing Apparatus

For consumers with textured hair, the ability to pass a brush or comb through wet hair with minimal snagging, tangling or friction is vital for treating and styling the hair more easily and for minimizing hair breakage. The ease of comb test can be used to support a wide range of claims (softness, smoothness, moisturization, etc).

Textured Hair Elongation
Image Analysis

Many consumers with textured hair would like longer and looser curls. The curl elongation test is a useful test for investigating product performance and for supporting curl elongation claims.

Textured Hair Shine
Image Analysis

Hair products can improve hair shine in a variety of ways, which the most common techniques being the addition of conditioners or controlling hair fiber alignment. However, measuring shine for textured hair requires specialist techniques, which we have developed at TRI.

Softness or Stiffness
Three-Point-Bend Test

The 3-point cantilever bending technique is a test used to measure the flexibility of a hair tress. It involves applying a force at a specific point between two supports and measuring the amount of deflection at the middle point. The amount of deflection measured can be used, in this test, as a measure of softness.

Hair Fiber Tests

Hair fiber tests are used to show how products or devices affect the properties of hair fibers and hair arrays. Data from such studies provide technical verification of product efficacy and are often used in crafting attractive marketing claims.

Hair Lipid Damage Prevention and Lipid Replenishment
Internal Hair Fiber Lipid Analysis, HPTLC

Although lipids are a minor component of the hair (~5%), they can have a large influence on hair properties. Analysis of lipids on present inside the hair can give insight into claims relating to shampoo surfactant mildness, prevention of lipid damage by chemical treatments, heat styling treatments and UV light, and to hair lipid replenishment.

Hair Water Absorption and Desorption
Dynamic Vapor Sorption (DVS)

Moisture levels have a marked effect on many different hair properties such the water-set and the ease of styling the hair. DVS can be used to investigate the effects of various damage insults and hair treatments on water absorption. Water uptake and loss is linked to hair porosity, but not to hair moisturization claims.

Hair and Scalp Surface Cleansing
Sebum Lipid Analysis, HPTLC

Choice of shampoo and dry shampoo formulations can affect the efficiency of sebum removal and overall hair cleansing. Analysis of sebum lipids from the hair and scalp is useful in supporting hair cleansing claims, and also in understanding the effects of formulation changes on lipid removal.

Heat Protection
Hot Iron with Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and automated repeated grooming

There are a range of approaches to protecting the hair from heat styling damage. The benefits of heat protection technologies can be measured using Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and automated repeated grooming.

Single-Fiber Hair Thickness and Swelling
Laser Scanning Micrometer

Technical evaluation of hair fiber dimensions is accurately and precisely quantified through use of a laser micrometer. The automated nature of this approach easily allows for screening sufficient fibers for appropriate statistical analysis.

Internal Hair Protein Damage and Repair
Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC)

The temperature at which hair’s protein structure denatures is widely used as one indication of its health. Insults that compromise hair’s internal structure lead to a decrease in the magnitude of this temperature.

Hair Damage and Repair
Spectroscopy

FTIR and Raman spectroscopy techniques are able to detect changes in the chemical composition and internal structures of hair.

Images of the Hair Surface and Damaged Fibers
Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM)

Extremely high magnification SEM experiments provide visualization of hair’s outer cuticle structure. Images show the way by which this structure degrades as a result of external wear and tear (e.g. grooming damage, heat styling damage, chemical treatments, etc.).

Hair Strength and Damage II
Single Fiber Tensile Experiments

In these studies, hair fibers are extended until they break. The forces required to stretch and break the hair are good indicators of internal hair properties and overall hair strength.

Hair Cuticle Surface Damage and Repair
Contact Angle Measurements

Contact angle measurements are used to measure the degree of cuticle surface damage on the hair. These measurements can be used to support cuticle surface protection and repair claims.

Hair Flexibility and Softness
Torsion Experiments

The extensional properties of hair are widely believed to be indicative of the fibers’ internal structure (the cortex) with no meaningful contribution from the outer protective cuticle structure. Conversely, twisting and bending properties are thought to be impacted by the cuticle and their measurement is considered reflective of alterations to this region of hair’s structure. This approach may pick up effects of materials penetration into hair’s outer regions, but which do not reach the inside.

Hair Strength and Damage
Fatigue Experiments

Fatigue experiments assess the tendency for hair breakage under the repeated application of small deformations. On the one-hand, the approach can be considered a more realistic simulation of consumer practices where grooming represents such a stimulus. But, in addition, these experiments almost always show bigger differences between samples than the traditional tensile testing approach.

Active Deposition & Absorption Techniques

Active deposition and absorption techniques measure the delivery of actives onto and into the hair.  Data are usually used by our clients to support penetration claims (e.g. “containing coconut oil that penetrates deep into the hair”). 

Active Ingredient Delivery Studies
Fluorescence Microscopy

Fluorescence microscopy is ideal for actives that are difficult to visualize directly with spectroscopy imaging, such as peptides and proteins.

Active Ingredient Delivery Studies II
Spectroscopy

If you want to show that your actives deposit onto the hair surface or penetrate deeper into the fiber you may consider doing some active delivery studies.

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