
Hair Claims Testing
LABORATORY TESTING
Our hair testing team offers a wide range of measurement techniques to assess the effects of raw materials, finished products and appliances on hair. Hair testing generally falls into three categories: hair tress tests, hair fiber tests and active deposition and absorption techniques.
Hair Tress Tests
Hair tress tests are methods used to show how products or devices deliver end-benefits to the whole hair array that are directly consumer relevant (e.g. softness, smoothness, shine etc). These types of techniques also often help support marketing propositions (e.g. “twice as smooth”, “10x less breakage”).
Ease-of-Combing
Automated Combing Apparatus
The ability to pass a brush or comb through hair with minimal snagging, tangling or friction is key to consumer perception of hair condition. If you want to know how well your products condition the hair and reduce dry or wet grooming forces, then you may want to consider performing ease-of-combing experiments.
Hair Color Fade
Colorimeter
Hair that has been colored by dye products can fade as a result of various external influences (e.g. washing, heat styling, sun exposure). If you are interested in measuring how your products, or devices, affect these color changes, then you might consider performing color fade measurements.
Control of Hair Static
Hair Static Apparatus
The build-up of static electricity, which can lead to frizzy or flyaway hair, can be an issue in air-conditioned buildings during the low-humidity winter months and is often problematic during heat styling. If you want to show how your product or hair styling device reduces flyaway or hair frizz, it might be interesting to measure hair static levels.
Dry Hair Smoothness
Surface Friction with the Texture Analyser
Dry hair smoothness is a key preference driver for many hair products, including shampoos and conditioners. Furthermore, restoration of dry hair smoothness is an important signal to consumers of hair damage repair. As a result, hair friction experiments are widely used in the category for performance testing of conditioning systems, and for supporting damage repair claims.
Ease of Rinse of Conditioning Products
Three-Point-Bend Test on Wet Hair
Fast ease of rinse is an important preference driver for all conditioning products, and for reducing water usage in the shower. This three-point-bend test can be used as a dynamic measure of wet lubrication effects and reflect what customers experience when using a product.
Hair Removal with Chemical Depilatory Products
Skin-Like Model with Embedded Hairs
Depilatory products have been used for hair removal for several hundred years. TRI Princeton offers a method for testing the efficacy of these products for hair removal through a fully customizable skin-like model with embedded hair fibers.
Heat Protection
Hot Iron with Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and automated repeated grooming
There are a range of approaches to protecting the hair from heat styling damage. The benefits of heat protection technologies can be measured using Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and automated repeated grooming.
Split Ends Closure
Automated Repeated Grooming Device
For many consumers, split ends are an important indicator of hair damage. They are formed as a result of chemical processing, heat styling and combing, and arise from the loss of the hair cuticle, or the external ‘jacket’ that keeps hair fibers intact.
Textured Hair Ease of Comb
Automated Combing Apparatus
For consumers with textured hair, the ability to pass a brush or comb through wet hair with minimal snagging, tangling or friction is vital for treating and styling the hair more easily and for minimizing hair breakage. The ease of comb test can be used to support a wide range of claims (softness, smoothness, moisturization, etc).
Textured Hair Shine
Image Analysis
Hair products can improve hair shine in a variety of ways, which the most common techniques being the addition of conditioners or controlling hair fiber alignment. However, measuring shine for textured hair requires specialist techniques, which we have developed at TRI.
Softness or Stiffness
Three-Point-Bend Test
The 3-point cantilever bending technique is a test used to measure the flexibility of a hair tress. It involves applying a force at a specific point between two supports and measuring the amount of deflection at the middle point. The amount of deflection measured can be used, in this test, as a measure of softness.
Hair Fiber Tests
Hair fiber tests are used to show how products or devices affect the properties of hair fibers and hair arrays. Data from such studies provide technical verification of product efficacy and are often used in crafting attractive marketing claims.
Hair Lipid Damage Prevention and Lipid Replenishment
Internal Hair Fiber Lipid Analysis, HPTLC
Although lipids are a minor component of the hair (~5%), they can have a large influence on hair properties. Analysis of lipids on present inside the hair can give insight into claims relating to shampoo surfactant mildness, prevention of lipid damage by chemical treatments, heat styling treatments and UV light, and to hair lipid replenishment.
Hair Water Absorption and Desorption
Dynamic Vapor Sorption (DVS)
Moisture levels have a marked effect on many different hair properties such the water-set and the ease of styling the hair. DVS can be used to investigate the effects of various damage insults and hair treatments on water absorption. Water uptake and loss is linked to hair porosity, but not to hair moisturization claims.
Hair and Scalp Surface Cleansing
Sebum Lipid Analysis, HPTLC
Choice of shampoo and dry shampoo formulations can affect the efficiency of sebum removal and overall hair cleansing. Analysis of sebum lipids from the hair and scalp is useful in supporting hair cleansing claims, and also in understanding the effects of formulation changes on lipid removal.
Heat Protection
Hot Iron with Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and automated repeated grooming
There are a range of approaches to protecting the hair from heat styling damage. The benefits of heat protection technologies can be measured using Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and automated repeated grooming.
Single-Fiber Hair Thickness and Swelling
Laser Scanning Micrometer
Technical evaluation of hair fiber dimensions is accurately and precisely quantified through use of a laser micrometer. The automated nature of this approach easily allows for screening sufficient fibers for appropriate statistical analysis.
Images of the Hair Surface and Damaged Fibers
Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM)
Extremely high magnification SEM experiments provide visualization of hair’s outer cuticle structure. Images show the way by which this structure degrades as a result of external wear and tear (e.g. grooming damage, heat styling damage, chemical treatments, etc.).
Hair Flexibility and Softness
Torsion Experiments
The extensional properties of hair are widely believed to be indicative of the fibers’ internal structure (the cortex) with no meaningful contribution from the outer protective cuticle structure. Conversely, twisting and bending properties are thought to be impacted by the cuticle and their measurement is considered reflective of alterations to this region of hair’s structure. This approach may pick up effects of materials penetration into hair’s outer regions, but which do not reach the inside.
Hair Strength and Damage
Fatigue Experiments
Fatigue experiments assess the tendency for hair breakage under the repeated application of small deformations. On the one-hand, the approach can be considered a more realistic simulation of consumer practices where grooming represents such a stimulus. But, in addition, these experiments almost always show bigger differences between samples than the traditional tensile testing approach.
Active Deposition & Absorption Techniques
Active deposition and absorption techniques measure the delivery of actives onto and into the hair. Data are usually used by our clients to support penetration claims (e.g. “containing coconut oil that penetrates deep into the hair”).